The Murales of Orgosolo
map of Orgosolo
Orgosolo is still considered the most notorious “bandit village” in Sardinia.
For a long time, this myth was deliberately promoted by the press and some travel agencies to “offer” something to paying tourists.
Today, most visitors come primarily for the “Murales” – the famous murals and main attractions of Orgosolo.
Although similar paintings can be found in many other places on the island, Orgosolo has by far the largest and most interesting collection.
Banditry is now a thing of the past, although occasional violent incidents still make headlines.
Aside from family feuds, which were often reignited due to blood revenge, it was primarily sheer poverty that drove many shepherds to become bandits.
The first mural appeared in 1968 when a theater group from Milano performed here.
On the occasion of the 30th anniversary of liberation in 1975, students created posters that they pasted on the walls.
Topics included the Vietnam War, the partisan struggle during fascism, and local events.
Then, art teacher Francesco del Casino began painting the pictures directly on the house walls together with his students. Del Casino was from Siena and lived in Orgosolo for almost 20 years.
Later, local artists such as Pascale Buesca and even painters from abroad also contributed.
The themes of the Murales are both international events and problems as well as events in Sardinia.
One of the most important is the successful fight of the population for Pratobello, which was also immortalized on the former town hall. (photo)
In 1969, NATO planned to establish a military training ground on the Pratobello plateau. However, Pratobello had been used as pastureland since ancient times, and the residents of Orgosolo resisted: roads were blocked, signposts were twisted, and herds of cattle were driven onto the access roads.
Orgosolo was supported by almost the entire Sardinian population. Eventually, the military withdrew, and the successful fight for Pratobello became a symbol of Sardinian resistance.
The facade and the entrance door of the former town hall are riddled with numerous bullet holes.
A special type of mural can be found on the facade of the Bar “ziu Mesina” – it testifies to the solidarity with the RAF movement in Germany.
The bust of then-Chancellor Helmut Schmidt stands on the grave of Ulrike Meinhof and Gudrun Ensslin.
(These had committed suicide along with others in custody in Stammheim, which was supposed to be portrayed as a murder staged by the German state.)
When walking through Orgosolo, you should not only stick to the main street but also take a look at the facades of the side streets.
While it had quieted down a bit in the nineties, some new murals have been added in recent years.
Themes include the attack on the World Trade Center and the subsequent Iraq war.
Many of the old Murales are unfortunately fading.
However, since the tourist potential has been recognized, many paintings have also been refreshed.
A trip to Orgosolo is also a scenic experience. You can visit the Pratobello plateau and take beautiful hikes in the surrounding forests.
No matter which direction you come to Orgosolo from, you should plan enough time for the return trip and take the direct route to Oliena. The lightly trafficked road winds through a beautiful landscape along the Supramonte massif.
During my first visit in 1997, the road was still unpaved, making the trip somewhat adventurous. However, the route is now fully paved.
At the exit of the village towards Oliena, you will pass a viewpoint.
It’s worth stopping here because you have a beautiful view towards Supramonte and the road to Oliena.