Cagliari
map of Cagliari with the marked sights
As you drive into Cagliari by car, the capital of Sardinia initially presents itself as rather plain and modern.
However, once you reach the city center, Cagliari reveals itself in a completely different light: beautiful palaces with magnificent facades, shady squares with benches under palm trees, street vendors, and tiny markets.
If you arrive by ferry, you’ll find yourself right on Via Roma (photo) – in the heart of the city.
The street, paved with huge stone slabs, runs directly along the harbor. Shaded arcades line the street under the magnificent facades of classical houses.
Here, street vendors try to make their living, and charming cafes invite you to linger.
As you walk westward along Via Roma, you’ll soon notice the Palazzo Communale – the former city hall.
This building, constructed in the 19th century, boasts a neogothic style made of marble.
A short distance further, you’ll reach the Cagliari train station. Just south of it lies the central bus station.
The tumultuous history of Sardinia has left its mark on the city to this day.
However, ancient relics are scarce. Most of the preserved historical buildings date back to the periods of Pisan, Spanish, and Piedmontese rule.
The Marina District
Cagliari’s historic harbour district lies at the foot of the historic Castello quarter and stretches along Via Roma, directly opposite the port of Cagliari. It is one of the oldest districts in the Sardinian capital and was the centre of trade and urban life for centuries.
The narrow streets and historic buildings tell the story of the district’s eventful past, blending Pisan, Spanish and Italian influences. Today, you will find numerous restaurants, traditional trattorias, cafés and small shops here. In the evening, the streets around Via Sardegna are particularly lively. The local restaurants serve Sardinian specialities and fresh fish.
A stroll through Marina combines well with a walk along the broad Via Roma.
The best way to explore Marina is on foot, wandering through its narrow lanes at your own pace. In the evening, you can experience the lively atmosphere of Cagliari and round off the day with some delicious Sardinian specialities.
The Chiesa di Sant’Eulalia
The Chiesa di Sant’Eulalia is located in the historic Marina district near the port and is one of Cagliari’s notable sights. Built in the 14th century following the Aragonese conquest of the city, the church is dedicated to Saint Eulalia of Barcelona. Over the centuries, elements of various architectural styles have been incorporated into the building.
From the outside, the church looks rather unassuming. Its real attraction, however, lies beneath the ground, where extensive remains of ancient Cagliari have been uncovered during archaeological excavations.
The entrance to the archaeological site is tucked away behind the church in Via del Collegio. Follow the signs for “Area Archeologica di Sant’Eulalia”.
Archaeological excavations have uncovered remains spanning more than 2,000 years of the city’s history across an area of around 900 square metres. The oldest finds date back to Punic times, when a sanctuary stood here. Later, the site became home to a Roman residential quarter.
One of the highlights is a wide street paved with large stone slabs, which once led towards the harbour. You can also see the remains of a colonnade, the foundations of ancient buildings and other traces of Roman life. Parts of the water supply and drainage systems have survived as well, offering a glimpse into how the Roman city of Karales (modern-day Cagliari) was laid out and organised.
A walk through the underground archaeological site takes you back through different periods of the city’s history. The remains tell the story of how this area evolved from an ancient sanctuary into a Roman neighbourhood and later became part of the medieval harbour district.
The “Castello”
From the viewpoints along the old fortifications, you can enjoy wonderful views across the city’s rooftops, the harbour and the sea.
During Spanish rule in Sardinia, Sardinians were forbidden from living in Castello – the houses within the walls were reserved for the Spanish. In the centuries that followed, the district remained home mainly to aristocrats, senior church officials and government representatives.
Magnificent palazzi, historic churches and elegant squares still bear witness to the district’s former importance.
However, by the 19th century, space within the walls had become increasingly scarce, and the construction of grand palazzi began in the harbour district.
Gradually, Castello lost its importance and fell into decline. Dark, narrow alleyways and neglected, damp houses once characterised many of its streets. Some corners have retained their original character to this day, offering a glimpse of what Cagliari was like in times gone by.
In recent years, extensive restoration work has been carried out, and many of the former aristocratic palaces have already been restored to their former glory.
The best way to explore Castello is on foot, allowing you to wander through its narrow streets and discover its historic charm at your own pace.
Bastione Saint Remy
At the southern end of the Castello, the defensive structures were dismantled at the end of the 19th century, and a marble staircase was built, leading to a huge viewing platform.
As an alternative to the stairs, a lift was constructed.
Up here, half of Cagliari gathers in the evenings, and small markets and concerts take place.
Trees provide shade, and many benches invite you to rest. The Bastione is an ideal starting point for exploring the old town.
From here, you can see the dome of the cathedral, which stands just a short distance above, directly on the edge of the Castello.
Cathedral of Santa Maria
Cagliari Cathedral stands in Piazza Palazzo, in the heart of the historic Castello district. Surrounded by narrow streets and historic buildings, it is one of the city’s main sights and well worth a visit. Just nearby, you will also find the Palazzo Regio, the former royal palace, and the old Palazzo di Città.
The cathedral was originally built by the Pisans in the 13th century, when they ruled much of southern Sardinia. The first written record of the church dates back to 1255. After the conquest of Santa Igia, the former capital, it became the seat of the bishop and an important religious centre for the city.
Over the centuries, the cathedral has undergone several transformations. Originally built in the Pisan Romanesque style, it was enlarged in the 14th century with the addition of Catalan Gothic elements. In the 17th century, the interior was extensively remodelled in the Baroque style, giving the building a very different appearance.
At the beginning of the 20th century, the Baroque façade was demolished in the hope of uncovering the original Romanesque frontage beneath it. The search proved unsuccessful, and in 1933 the cathedral received its present façade of pale marble, inspired by the Romanesque churches of Pisa.
Today, the cathedral is a fascinating reflection of Sardinia’s eventful past. Its mix of architectural styles tells the story of the different cultures and rulers that have shaped the island over the centuries. When exploring Castello, take some time to admire the façade and step inside to discover more of this historic landmark.
As you step inside the cathedral, the contrast between its relatively modest exterior and its richly decorated interior is immediately striking. Colourful marble, intricate carvings, sculptures and painted ceilings give the church an impressive appearance. The interior is divided into three naves, with a number of side chapels adding to its architectural charm.
One of the highlights is the marble pulpit by the sculptor Guglielmo. It was originally created around 1160 for Pisa Cathedral and brought to Cagliari in 1312, strengthening the ties between Pisa and this strategically important port city. The pulpit features detailed biblical scenes and numerous sculpted figures. During the cathedral’s Baroque remodelling, it was split into two sections, which can still be seen on either side of the entrance today.
The chapels around the altar are also well worth exploring. Each has its own distinctive character, with Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque elements reflecting the different periods in which the cathedral was altered. One of the most striking features is the mausoleum of the Aragonese prince Martino il Giovane, whose elaborate marble decorations complement the cathedral’s richly ornamented interior.
Beneath the altar lies the Sanctuary of the Martyrs, a crypt built in 1618 under Archbishop Francisco Maria De Esquivel.
Carved into the rock, this underground chamber houses relics of Christian martyrs whose remains were discovered during excavations in Cagliari. Rows of niches line the walls, while the vaulted ceilings are decorated with intricate carvings. Particularly eye-catching are the ornate rosettes, which add distinctive details to the otherwise solemn atmosphere of the crypt.
A visit to the Sanctuary of the Martyrs reveals a different side of the cathedral, taking you below its richly decorated interior into a place closely linked to Cagliari’s religious past. The crypt offers a glimpse into the traditions of Christian worship and the importance of religious relics throughout the city’s history.
Torre di San Pancrazio
Continue uphill from the cathedral to Piazza Indipendenza, where you’ll find one of the two surviving Pisan defensive towers.
Built in 1305 during Pisan rule, the tower was designed by architect Giovanni Capula and constructed from large blocks of pale limestone. Its purpose was to protect the northern entrance to the fortified Castello district.
Standing around 36 metres tall, the Torre di San Pancrazio has four levels connected by wooden floors. One of its most distinctive features is its open side, which faces towards the fortified district. This design was typical of Pisan defensive towers. It allowed defenders to keep the structure under control and prevented attackers from using it as a fully enclosed stronghold if they managed to capture it.
Narrow arrow slits and a former defensive walkway were used to guard the entrance and monitor the surrounding area. Inside, narrow wooden staircases lead up to four wooden platforms.
After the Aragonese conquest of Cagliari, the tower was modified and later served various purposes, including use as a prison.
Together with the Torre dell’Elefante, built just a few years later, the Torre di San Pancrazio is one of the most important surviving examples of Cagliari’s medieval fortifications.
From the highest platform, you can enjoy sweeping views across the Castello district, the harbour quarter below and the coastline stretching southwards.
Cittadella dei Musei
Just north of Piazza Indipendenza, you’ll find the Cittadella dei Musei, a museum complex housed in the former arsenal. It brings together several museums showcasing Sardinia’s rich history, art and culture.
The highlights include the National Archaeological Museum, with its fascinating finds from the Nuragic period, and the National Art Gallery (Pinacoteca Nazionale), which features Sardinian and Catalan altarpieces. Other collections include Siamese art, traditional Sardinian culture and the renowned anatomical wax models created by Clemente Susini.
The complex also offers lovely views over Cagliari and the coastline. If you only have time for one museum, the National Archaeological Museum is well worth a visit, especially if you’re interested in Sardinia’s ancient history.
The Roman Amphitheatre
A visit to Cagliari’s Roman Amphitheatre offers a fascinating glimpse into life in the ancient city of Karales. It is one of Sardinia’s most important Roman monuments, and its impressive remains give you an idea of the scale of public entertainment in Roman times.
Built probably in the late 1st or early 2nd century AD, the amphitheatre has a remarkable feature: much of the seating, arena and network of passageways was carved directly into the natural rock. Other sections were built from pale limestone blocks. In its heyday, the venue could accommodate around 10,000 spectators.
Seating was arranged according to social rank, while rooms and passageways beneath the arena were used to house animals and prepare events. Over the centuries, the amphitheatre fell into disrepair and parts of it were quarried for building materials.
Today, you can still see sections of the seating and the structures cut into the rock, which help bring the monument’s former grandeur to life. Take a little time to look closely at the surviving remains and imagine the crowds that once gathered here.
The amphitheatre is located on Viale Sant’Ignazio da Laconi, just a short distance from Cagliari’s Botanical Garden. It’s worth combining the two if you’re exploring this part of the city.
Sagra di Sant’Efisio
Every year from May 1st to 4th, the largest festival in all of Sardinia takes place. This deeply religious pilgrimage is dedicated to the martyr Efisio, who is also the patron saint of Cagliari.
Efisio was a Roman legionary who converted to Christianity and was beheaded by the Romans in Nora.
The procession is accompanied by a huge number of folk groups from across the island, dressed in magnificent costumes, playing music, and singing as they parade for hours through the center of Cagliari.
If you’re in Sardinia in early May, you should definitely attend this event. It’s the most beautiful opportunity to experience the ancient dances, costumes, and traditions of Sardinia.
In Pula and Nora, the festival takes place on the 2nd and 3rd days as well. These events are also worth a visit.